I’ve used a 140 mm one piece crank on a klunker I once built. It had a low bb and I kept getting pedal strikes. It worked as I eliminated strikes but the cadence was very weird, choppy. I gave the bike away.
Two of my trackers. This is one I originally built in the 1970s. It’s had a few improvements since then. I had 3 of these so friends could come with me exploring hiking and old logging roads. Home built beaters from old three speed frames.
This one isn’t finished.
All that is unnecessary on a road bike. Discs are downright dangerous as they have removed kneecaps from a road bike crash. Tubelesss, what good is a tire if you can’t get it on and off if you get a flat during a road cruise. Fixed gear is for the track.
I’ve made my own reamer out of a much smaller seat post. It easily fit inside the seat tube. I put a threaded rod through the seat post held with jam nuts at both ends. I wrapped 80 grit sand paper around the seat post reamer, held in place with spray on contact glue. I used an electric drill...
I didn’t like this type of adapter. It gives you twice the pull distance but half the torque which made my brakes too weak. An expensive piece for the garbage. If this is your plan I would ask others about their experience with these before buying them. I tried the problem solvers brand. I could...
Homemade, free from junk. I had this spread and realignment checked by a bike shop with a real tool and my homemade job was perfect.
After spreading I use this homemade tool to check the frame alignment.
I spread with a furniture clamp.
I’ve plugged those lock holes with lock barrels I’ve removed from thrift store locking office cabinets. I epoxy them in. They don’t work but it makes for an original look. Sometimes you need to make a round cover if the lock hole is too big or enlarge the top of the hole and cut off most of the...