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frame wise, if you are buying anything now it needs:- boost rear end (148x12) tapered or 44mm straight headtube to be compatible with 99% of suspension forks, hub size is 15x110 (boost) either a 73mm BSA BB shell, or a T47, i'd avoid pressfit of any kind if possible seatube internal diameter...

first thing i thought of was an old Karakorum i had, i bought it used but i think it was a 1999 and it was red, so i went looking around that year model, i couldn't find one that looked like the one i had but i did find this pic which has a brazed seat clamp, which has a title on the pic of 1999...

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ok so i kind of went another way with this. the Kona Kila-Honzo is no more :( it developed 2 cracks, i don't want to fix it, it would cost a lot and i never felt i got on with it, mainly because it felt more XC than trail, basically it had a steeper head angle than the Oranges i ride so felt...

as a shop owner, i stock a brand called "Halt" for my general workshop stuff, stainless steel inners, good quality outers, it's one of my suppliers own brand, sometimes i sell straight from out those boxes. for selling packaged stuff to customers i sell a brand called Elvedes, £8 for inner and...

@AGT not sure if you read the whole thread but if you do i explain the why on those differences;)

ok, so finally an update on this one! it got opuit on the back burner because i wasn't happy with the Marzocchi fork, so i got the rockshox, but Darren needed them so i sold them to him (for what i paid for them), then temporarily the marzocchi fork while looking for another fork. eventually i...

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so i finished faffing with this, the brakes have been a sod to set up as the modern rim surface is quite rough, which improves braking but as a result the pads sometimes stick when you pull had so getting the angle of the pad was quite critical. gears feel so clunky by modern standards! nearly...

@drystonepaul long time no speak! hope you're good mate!

ok so i got a bit more done today, thanks to @markjohnson76 for supplying a NOS front hub, and ebay for a used but good condition dx rear shell, that meant i had a good pair of hubs. i found a used shell that was 36hole and swapped the good inners i had from a 32hole hub, i then built the wheels...

all mine have been 27.2mm

hmm . . . i chose not to go because i could only attend for one day, (but i wamted to do saturday night and sunday) the day price was very high as has been stated by several people, as a result we find out we were not the only ones thinking this, meaning i hear they were 1000 plus down on...

@markjohnson76 pm on way

actualkly i have found a rear shell. so just need a front 36 hole, ideally DX to match! thanks

hey guys, i was just about to build up a pair of wheels using old LX hubs, so i stripped them out of the battered old rims ready to polish up and service before being rebuilt, unfortunately they were in a right state and unlikely to look any good once rebuilt so i'm looking for a pair of 36...

ok so it was time to play with my stuff again! i decided i wanted to put the 27plus wheels back in, also i wanted the higher front end so i fitted up a USE 40mm rise bar and as this bike is gonna be used this winter and i needed to advertise mudguards on my shop page i decided to fit the winter...

hmm . . . odd. if the back of the crank arm has a stud to combat chain drop, then the timing pin should be removed from the chianring and then fitted behind the crank arm, i understand the "she rode it like that" but that would have been a mechaincs choice, and arguably wrong choice! sorry...

i have to say i think this is a really great project . . . but . . . please fit the top chainring correctly, the other 2 are aligned correctly with the timing mark in line with the crank arm but the top chainring is not aligned with the crank arm, the timing pin...