Recent content by elite504

The top cap is held on with a self tapping screw. Remove the shifter from the mount and up the bore for the retaining screw, you will see the cross-head of the self tapping screw for the top cap. If the top cap has pulled off, perhaps fill the topcap bore with epoxy, let it cure, drill a tiny...

If you have to ask.... Depends on what coming back from the pub entails!

Remind me, what was the subtle difference?

That is a freakin' steal. Have a wish-I-was-taller bump.

This is the fella. They seem to have dropped it to £90 all be it without a bottle for the snow foam gun. Just to note, I do also have the vehicle brush too, just not shown in the pics If you're looking at some of the deals I see from googling at £55 i.e. B&Q, just bear in mind you don't get any...

Remembrance bump.

I have a set of Mity' dial calipers on my desk right now. Probably the best compromise between cost and easiness to read. Just don't drop them and smash the glass...

Bear in mind that the supereight was only made for a year, as unfortunately, despite the eyewatering (for the time) price tag (which according to the Bank of England calculator is £620 in today's money), the supereight wasn't reliable. The pawls are very wear prone, as is the ratchet ring. The...

You're right, something like a Mitutoyo will give you a proper and accurate caliper. +/- 0.02 as per the instructions but in reality, normally within 0.01 on a slip gauge. Totally get what you say re a regular vernier caliper, but if you've not had the schooling, verniers are not the easiest to...

Niiiice... ...................toolbox.

Rust worms, filigree rust: https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/yeti-pro-fro-factory-clearcoat.295406/

If you want to bodge a little, and M10 under the mech bolt will push the mech out a bit. This helps keep some spring tension in the system and help it drop onto the smallest cog. Note, this only works if the mech is running out of steam for the last shift, not if it's slow across the whole...

See page 3 here: https://www.mtb-kataloge.de/Bikekataloge/PDF/Ringle/1994.pdf Clevis pin head is to the front, bolt to the rear.

I've just come across this thread and read it all the way through, and I think you've taken this from good to great with the last couple of adjustments you've made. My favourite era of Fox, with one of my favourite builds. Small word to note... the internal roller on the stem EATS brake cables...

This is all a lot of ballache to desperately try and keep a damaged arm in service, that at the end of the day is still damaged. Why not spend comparable money (£30-40), and a whole heap less time, and just buy a replacement arm...