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Yes, weird as was fine before the wheel and cassette swap. I'll faff around and see if I can sort it through cable replacing and b scee scrutiny.

If the spacers are out back on incorrectly, you can end up with the BB cup too far outboard which will then bind against the arm. Are you able to post a pic or visually confirm the way the spacers are set up and if the arm is literally tightening up against the BB cup?

The correct process is to remove the self extracting covers, freeing the captive bolts. With the bolts removed you can see the splines and align correctly before refitting the bolts, tighten them up, then finally screw the self extractor covers back on.

Rest assured I've done that, it's still dropping slowly even after a few turns on the adjuster, which then if course messes with the upshift.

It's an xt rear mech and shifter which were shifting fine before the wheel and cassette swap, nothing else has been touched. I'll check the b limit screw but things looked ok to me. I may as well swap the cables, I was going to do that anyway as a full tear down was on the cards, just wanted...

I have seen some xtr cranks with marks on the cranks which could only have been caused by the arm binding on the inside of the BB. Not sure how this happens as the arms should not be able to do this unless there's something wrong with the splines and they've allowed the arm to be over-tightened...

Do you have any pics?

Things were working fine prior to a change in wheels and cassette. Cassette was an 11sp xt, but new wheels run an XD driver so it's now sorting an xo 11sp XD cassette. Chain was new a few rides before the wheel and cassette swap ( had issues with the freehub and wheels were odd anyway, hence...

I think I may have one of those barb connectors. Will have a rummage, thanks for reminding me that they existed. It's for xt brakes if that makes a difference.

Which one?

Fettling my son's bike today as it will get some use over the coming half term week. Noticed the front brake had no pressure, so thought I'd bleed it but previous owner has rounded the bleed bolt on the lever. No problem, I was going to swap in some xt brakes anyway so that solves that brake...

Here's a couple of pics of 2 use posts I have, one new in box, one fitted to a project in building but I have another which matches the stem brand so my OCD may thank me. Not managed to find the Thompson, I may no longer have it.

May not be what you are after but I have a carbon 29er in medium (felt 9 line). Qr rear. I have added some carbon rigid forks which are a good match colour wise (red and black as per frame). I have a fair few of the parts left that I had it built with if you are after more than just the frame.

May have a use carbon elite stashed away. Possibly new in box or lightly used option. May have a Thompson but not sure. New I-beam which I've also got an adapter to run normal saddles. Or I have some I-beam saddles. May have another carbon post from a road bike, maybe others, have an...

I may have a pair of shoes. May also be interested in the arm above. Can't remember if I managed to find one or if I still have 3 of 4 arms looking for a mate.

It's probably down to the collars. The BB is designed to work with both 68 and 73mm shells so perhaps the collars have moved and you need to adjust them. Have the spacers gone back the same way they came off?

Not sure what you mean. Just after a cheap tapered headset to try and see if I can run some tapered forks on a bike frame I have with semi-integrated cups currently. There used to be loads on eBay but not so much now, hence the question. I'm not dropping to ali-express standards ;)

I'm not normally one to scrimp having become a parts snob since joining rb, but in this case, especially as it's an experiment really, I'm willing to ignore my usual standards and go as cheap as I can.

What mount type is your frame and brands?

Not sure what you mean. They are all continental tyres, just different models.