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That assumes anyone will go for it. I hate car manufacturer branded bikes. They are shameless branding exercises, no different to sunglasses or keyrings.

The Park glueless patch will work on TPU tubes, which are almost as light as latex but don't lose air so fast.

It's hard to tell, at first glance I'm with @MattiThundrrr but it needs a little investigating. I would scrape off a little with a scalpel to see if it's rusty underneath. If so it will spread so needs attention - or wait and leave it and do a bigger paint job later.

It looks like the rear wheel has also been switched? That new rear appears to have a steel rim (either that or you did a lovely job polishing it). If it's steel you will never get decent braking in the wet and in the dry it will be mediocre at best.

I have had similar problems in the past. In my case it was that the cable outer was not snugged fully into the Ergo body when I overhauled things and replaced the outers. It was really easy for the outer to be 1 or 2 mm off snug, especially as you tape the outer round the bend in the bars. Make...

@bagpuss PM sent, it's yours.

That's the difference between an eBike and pedalling only. The big jumps between gears would be horrible: pedalling at an high cadence then a jump to a much lower one. I'm not riding an eBike.

As far as I can see its main advantage is a short cage mech that can handle big cassettes and still be compatible with road 7/8/9/10. It might be handy on my folder. SRAM mechs also can do something similar (11-40 is a stock 9s cassette from them). However 11-45 sounds like horrible jumps...

My Kaboom here: https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/kona-kaboom-yr-2000.443147/ It's the second one I've owned, a 16", originally had 18". Irritatingly they didn't do 17. As far as I know they only ever made around 700 of them. Nice frame, very similar to the Cindercone of the same age although...

Here you go: length around 30cm, width 14cm for the rigid base. Obviously the side pockets take it wider.

@andym999 Nice - what tyres are they? The usual Schwalbe Billy Bonkers or something else...?

Got a grey Carradice rack top bag (Cordura not canvas) - any good? You can have it for a tenner posted.

You do see Cannondales used as winter commuters with masses of corrosion and blistering under the paint, but yours doesn't look like one of them.

Unusual bike! Looks rather nice. Check for: Frame cracks - typically around the bottom bracket and head tube junctions Does the seatpost move? Gritty or loose headset Bottom bracket play Rumbly wheel hubs Check that there are V-brake levers to match those (later I think) V-brakes. If the brakes...

I searched it because I had never come across such a rare beast before and wondered if it even existed! These guys list one: https://sscycleworks.com/components/derailleur-front-shimano-mountain.html

Quite. Unless you test with the same saddle, grips and tyres you won't have a clue what you are comparing. Ideally of course also the whole finishing kit! My singlespeed (Kona Kaboom) rides totally differently with different forks - swapping from triple butted P2 to Exotic carbon removed loads...

One other suggestion: Marin Pine Mountain. The last ones around 1999 were in Columbus Neuron and lovely to ride.

A Hypercracker (or NBT-2) is small and a good touring toolkit add-on.

Have you tried SJS Cycles?

I think you are taking the point about tube specs to a black and white extreme: you can make an aluminium frame that feels like steel, it just doesn't last very long. Similarly you can adjust the feel of a steel frame from over-stiff to compliant to flexy to wibbly by changing the tube...