1997 Diatech Aheadset assemble order

[dyna-ti]

Its the last job on the marin, to reassemble the headset.
Problem is,like a noob, i didnt take note of the way it came apart

Its the self tightening bit or rather the wedge under that. I can see how it logically goes but that means the wedge would be the reverse of every other
Am i right in saying the wedge sticks up instead of the usual down and the clamp bit forces it down to load the bearings.


Order of assembly as i see it, correct me if im wrong please

Fork end- Crown race -> bearing facing up -> little plastic ring seal
H/S end - Bearing facing down -> little plastic seal ->steerer race(with the grey plastic covering) then the wedge but with the wedge facing up -> then the clamp ring :?

Im guessing that you preload by forcing the weight down on the steerer while the wheel is jammed in a corner to support it then you tighten up the wedge clamp(5mm allen key) and when youre happy its not rattling and not too tight you do up the steerer bolts

Correct ?

Or if anyone has a copy of an assemble order diagram please post it up

Probably nothing there but im off to check our archive :?

 

[Gruff]

Re:

I had one on my old Kona.
Fat part of wedge at bottom so the clamp sits over it and once your stem is on and nipped up you then tighten the clamp bolt which forces the wedge down to remove headset play.

I think you have the rest correct.

 

[legrandefromage]

This type?

 

[dyna-ti]

Thanks Guys

After greasing it ,the whole lot tightened up properly

Am i right in assuming this design is something that allows for variances in the preload :? So if i feel knocking from the headset i just need to tighten it a bit further :?
Would that be correct ?

 

[hamster]

Correct bearing tension is set by loosening the stem clamp and anything else clamping the steerer. Then turn the top cap bolt until the play is just removed. Check play by rocking the bike on its wheels with the front brake on firmly. After retightening everything, recheck play and also lift the bike and check the steering is free, light and smooth. Finally loosen the top cap bolt a quarter of a turn to remove the tension - especially important with plastic top caps, especially the unobtainable Syncros ones...

Most people seem to think that the top cap holds the stem on. It doesn't, that's the stem steerer clamp. The top cap is solely for bearing adjustment.

 

[THE ARS]

Re:

There's no star nut with these headsets, the top cap just pushes in like an end cap for your handlebars.

I tightened mine up by tightening the stem a bit and whacking it down with a hammer.

Once you get it close tighten the stem completely and tighten that black clamp thingy that sits on the cone. That takes up the slack.

Sounds retarded I know, but I literally sat staring at this thing for twenty minutes and that is all I could come up with.

Anyhoo, I've since replaced the fork and it works a lot better with a nut and a bolt on it, I'd recommend you do the same.

Interestingly, these were designed to eliminate extra long bolts, yet mine came on a Parkpre that has the shortest head tube I have ever seen. :mrgreen:

 

[hamster]

Eureka moment! Of course, squeezing the locking ring forces the conical bit downwards...provided the ring doesn't ride upwards instead. :?

 

[dyna-ti]

Eureka moment! Of course, squeezing the locking ring forces the conical bit downwards...provided the ring doesn't ride upwards instead. :?

Well, looks like ive been lucky but thats probably more to do with the lack of wear than anything else.

Always that Eureka moment when you solve a reassembly procedure

So thank you everybody
*Special thanks to Mr Cheese for the diagram which i can read easier than verbal explanations