arch-stanton
Dirt Disciple
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Anyone got a Hope C2 bleed kit for sale? Must have the C2 cap fitting.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Hope C2 bleed kit
- Thread starter arch-stanton
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suburbanreuben
Old School Grand Master
It might look like nothing is happening at first, but eventually the fluid gets moving.
arch-stanton
Dirt Disciple
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Yeah, I've been doing that, but still they feel soft.... missed out on a kit on E bay last week, then wondered if any of you guys may have one.... please don't make me sit in the kitchen, watching bubbles come out of a tube for another 2 hours!
suburbanreuben
Old School Grand Master
Either your brakes are knackered or you're not doing it right. I usually have the problem of them being rock hard, once done, and letting too much fluid out to make them softer.
Here's how: http://www.hopetech.com/database/hopeman1.pdf
Here's how: http://www.hopetech.com/database/hopeman1.pdf
arch-stanton
Dirt Disciple
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Cheers,
I downloaded the 'how to' guide and have followed it to the letter.. calipers move nicely, there's no leaks, new olives fitted.. will have another go at them today..
I downloaded the 'how to' guide and have followed it to the letter.. calipers move nicely, there's no leaks, new olives fitted.. will have another go at them today..
suburbanreuben
Old School Grand Master
I find the key is to squeeze the levers slowly, and still be squeezing them when you close the nipple. Getting the reservoir cap on is a bit of a phaff, but that should be cos your brakes are rock hard.
Which levers, sport or Pro? New seals? Don't forget the ring round the top cap piston. That is vital!
Which levers, sport or Pro? New seals? Don't forget the ring round the top cap piston. That is vital!
also, this may sound patronising, but make sure your caliper is properly centred over the pads, never underestimate just how spongy and mushy it can feel if it hits with one pad first (or one end of a pad it is on the skew) and then slightly flexes the rotor while the other piston catches up.
matt
matt
arch-stanton
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suburbanreuben:
Pro levers.. as I say, the system is sealed, no leaks anywhere..
Do I need a new top cap seal each time I bleed the brakes then?.. I've cleaned it up and seated it properly, looks ok to me..
amedias:
I've looked at the caliper and it is ever so slightly out, so thanks for that.. I think some Hope shims are in order now..
I have had another go at them and they do seem a lot better, thanks for the advice.
Pro levers.. as I say, the system is sealed, no leaks anywhere..
Do I need a new top cap seal each time I bleed the brakes then?.. I've cleaned it up and seated it properly, looks ok to me..
amedias:
I've looked at the caliper and it is ever so slightly out, so thanks for that.. I think some Hope shims are in order now..
I have had another go at them and they do seem a lot better, thanks for the advice.
you wont need a new top cap seal every time, C2s tend to go on for ever, I have a set with pro levers that are just now, after 9 years beginning to feel a bit worse for wear, but a lever seal kit is cheap and they come back as good as new after a rebuild.
I normally try and replace all the seals at least every 2 years and bleed them once a year but somehow this set have just kept on going, I think I last bled them about 4 years ago :-s
They can be stubborn to bleed though, with some particularly awkward ones I have used the old magura 'reverse fill' method using a big-ass syringe on the caliper end and very gently but steadily purge it and just let the lever reservoir overflow. Its basically the same as what the C2 pressurised jobby does but filling from the bottom which can help dislodge stubborn bubbles in some cases.
Matt
I normally try and replace all the seals at least every 2 years and bleed them once a year but somehow this set have just kept on going, I think I last bled them about 4 years ago :-s
They can be stubborn to bleed though, with some particularly awkward ones I have used the old magura 'reverse fill' method using a big-ass syringe on the caliper end and very gently but steadily purge it and just let the lever reservoir overflow. Its basically the same as what the C2 pressurised jobby does but filling from the bottom which can help dislodge stubborn bubbles in some cases.
Matt
