Hope TI Glide hubs... how do you dissasemble these?

[SEANSTEPHENS]

Okay so I'd possibly like to take these hubs apart in the future to get them re anodised in a different colour. But they are sealed with unthreaded axles so there's no obvious way of taking them apart. I thought maybe I could hit the end of the axle with a mallet and it all slides apart, but surely it can't be that easy, are there circlips inside holding it together or something? Any help will be appreciated

Couple pics

http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/6834263/

http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/6834265/

 

[FluffyChicken]

Rear is a Ti-Glide front is a Suspension.
Schematics and service instructions are in the Gallery&Archive, also possibly on Hopes website now.
But a mallet and bearing seating tools, or equivilent, if changing the bearing.
Wiki has bearing info.

 

[mattr]

How will you manage to get the ends/flanges off the Ti centre sleeve?
IIRC they are glued into place, won't be so good once its been in an anodizing tank.

 

[boxxer]

You can't take the ti centre unless you have a press to put it back together again.. Hammer won't cut it....

 

[cce]

if you ride around on them for long enough they'll crack and come apart quite nicely.

 

[SEANSTEPHENS]

if you ride around on them for long enough they'll crack and come apart quite nicely.

So I've heard, although they have served me well the last 3 years. Probably too much effort anyway. I'll just flog em instead

 

[mattr]

if you ride around on them for long enough they'll crack and come apart quite nicely.

At which point hope will probably do you a deal on a shiny new pair. (Took 13 or 14 years, 3 or 4 sets of bearings and half a dozen new rims to crack my original TiGlide rear)

 

[dyna-ti]

1. Pull of freehub side cap
2. Pull off freehub and the little spacer with it
3. Walk around looking for one of the springs
4. Check under the fridge, where it is found.
5 Wonder why as thats in another room
6. Dismiss
7. Look for soft faced hammer
7b. Find in back garden after 3 hours searching
8. Hold the hub body in one hand with the drive side end of the axle facing up
9. Wallop the drive side axle end with the hammer as hard as you can
10. Drop hub and allow pain to subside
11. Pick up hub and repeat the process avoiding hitting yourself this time.
12. When the non drive side bearing pops out, slide it away with the rest of the axle
13. Suddenly realize that to get the axle off the bearing you need a hole through a piece of wood
14. Ignoring the urge to use the kitchen work surface go out the the shed and find a small plank
15. Look and find to your surprise and pleasure that the drill is where you left it and the correct size of drill bit is with it.
16. Discover it has no charge and that takes 8 hours.

Day Two

1. Drill a hole through the piece of wood
2. Discover you now have a permanent jig in the kitchen work top
3. Slide axle through hole till the bearing rests against the wood then hammer the bearing off
4. Holding the hub in your hand. slide the axle in from the other end and repeat the hitting of it to free the drive side bearing
5. Repeat stage 3 (Day Two)




Bearings out of freehub you say :shock: :shock:

OK
You will need a length of steel. 6mm in diameter A blowlamp. A hammer. a bench vice
Hold the steel rod tightly in the vice and leave the blowlamp propped up to enable it to sit in the flame hands free. When it glows cherry start hitting it on top.
What you are trying to do is create a large burr. Its this 'burr when filed (oh yeah you need a file) will allow you to reach inside the freehub and with the burr placed under the edge of the bearing it can be slowly drifted out (tiny movements are the key here working your way around the edge)
Once the end bearing is out you have a large circlip then a spacer like the one that came off when you removed the freehub itself. Actually is it not the spacer first then the circlip :?


Drifts i make out of hardwood because i can turn it down exactly to dimension. Something like a section of a reasonable quality brush handle. Its good because it its oversized anybody with some sandpaper can bring it down to size without any problems

 

[SEANSTEPHENS]

I actually enjoyed reading those instructions.... How often can a guy say that?

 

[gerryattrick]

I've just taken apart and rebuilt front & rear Ti glide hubs. Front is simple but the rear with freehub is a real pain in the a**e.

My advice is to make a note of exactly the order in which bearings/circlips come out to ensure you get re-assembly right. Don't be afraid of a bit of violence to remove/refit parts.

The drilled wood blocks are a must, as are elastic band to hold pawls in place while refitting freehub.


These instructions from this site helped me a lot:

HOPE HUB/FREEHUB REMOVAL & REFIT

Tools needed: Large socket, as near to outer race diameter of bearings as possible. Rubber hammer. Circlip pliers. Block of wood at least 2" thick with holes drilled in it to support hub & freehub when assembling & disassembling.

DIS-ASSEMBLING:

Freehub (from open end) is bearing, circlip, circlip, bearing. Both 6001 types (2RS )

Getting them out can be easy, they just pop out with a few taps, or a right royal pain in the backside as mine were last week.

Take the end caps off each side, they just pull off or use an allen key grub screw.
Then pull the freehub body a little, you may need to help it from behind with a screwdriver to lever it. ( take care to avoid pawls and tiny springs from flying everywhere).

Freehub body, from the closed end, you need to tap the outer bearing out by hitting the axle (called drifting) then remove the circlips to take the inner one out. The inner bearing can be time-consuming to remove and you will have to hit it quite hard (possibly have to damage the bearing to get it out).
Placing it on a radiator to warm it helped me here and plenty of WD40 during to keep it slippery.

Hub bearings, place the flange non-drive side between two pieces of wood or preferably a piece of wood drilled for it as support, then keep bashing away at the axle from the drive side (rubber mallet so as not to damage the axle). This can take some effort and spraying WD40 in once it startsto move could help it along.
The other, drive side I placed a socket that was a good fit inside the hub, socket extension and wacked it, came out fairly easily.

REBUILDING:

Fit bearings into hub body first. RH, drive, side has bearing with larger hole, non-drive side has bearing with smaller hole. Use suitably sized socket and rubber hammer so as to knock bearings in by outer edges.

Next drift bearing with large hole deep into free hub body until it reaches the base using socket & rubber hammer. Fit circlip in groove to secure it. Next fit circlip into groove approx 2cm nearer outside of free hub (this stops outer bearing from going too far into free hub body).

Fit axle through free hub (should fit through quite easily).

Using wood block with hole drilled through fit outer bearing (small hole) over axle into bearing, again using large socket as a drift plus rubber hammer.

Next re-fit freehub, complete with axle. Assemble the pawls and springs into body using some grease, and secure them with an elastic band round freehub to keep them secure while re-fitting. Slide freehub into position, taking off elastic band once pawls are held in place and before freehub completely in.

Put locking nuts back on and job complete.




Good luck and TAKE CARE.