Magura HS33 setup - any tips?

foz

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Any tips for getting the pads/slaves aligned properly? Any helpful hints?

the instructions say 2mm pad to rim clearance, but that means I have to pull the levers almost all the way to the bars before full braking - I like my brakes to bite with as little lever pull as possible.

thanks!
 
they are :)

I'm finding it hard to get both sides set symmetrically, with the pads at 1mm and parallel to the rims and without using the TPA to move them in once adjusted...
 
Re:

Take your time to set them up, once done you can leave them like that for years :D
1mm is about the best you'll get.
Make sure they're bled properly, and again once bled that's it for the next 10years!
You can swap the adapters around to get the calipers closer to the rim of need be.
 
Re:

If any of this doesn't make sense, just let me know, and I'll explain better.

1. tyres off - Sooo much easier.
2. tpa or travel adjuster on the lever needs to be all the way out (I assume you'e using new pads)
3. clamp the calipers up loose so they can move around.
4. one side at a time, push the calipers through the clamp until the pads are tight and flat against the rim. tighten the clamps.

At this point, you essentially have your brakes on, with the levers at rest, with the pads perfectly flat on the rims.

5. one side at a time, loosen the clamps until the caliper will JUST slide in the clamp when you pull the lever.
6. pull the lever until the caliper moves 1mm in the clamp and then do the clamp back up.
7. repeat on the other side.

You now have perfectly positioned pads, with the perfect amount of travel.

8. Have a cup of tea.

8)
 
Re: Re:

Papillon":1jy10fb5 said:
Get rid of the oil and use water ☺
Papillon

I know a lot of the trials boys do this for a better 'feel', but as you have to add antifreeze to help stop corrosion and freezing, I'd be worried about what it'd do to the seals.
 
thanks for all the tips! I already have them newly assembled and fully bled, it's just the setting up of the mounts and slaves that I'm finding tricky. It just seems a bit of a faff - if I loosen the bolts to allow the slave to move in the mount, then it moves too easily and won't hold it's position while I tighten the bolts. If I don't tighten it enough, it won't move :facepalm:

Will try steps 6 and 7 from above and see if that makes things easier. step 8 will likely be changed from cup of tea to pint of beer, but will remain all the same :)

I know the TPA adjuster needs to be all the way out (so that it can be turned in as the pads wear, obviously), but is it possible to use it in the same way as a cable tension adjuster when setting cable brakes? I usually screw those out, hold the brakes closed with the pads against the rim to tighten the cable clamp, then screw the adjusters back in to move the pads out again. Knowing how far the pads move for each turn of the adjuster, it's easy to get it set perfectly. Can I not turn the TPA all or part way out, hold the slaves so the pads are against the rim, clamp everything down, then turn the TPA back in again? I guess I'd have to hold both slaves at the same time...
 
I use a spacer e.g. stanley blade or similar beween rim and pad. Adjust the slave so it fits tight to the blade, them remove blade and repeat for the other side.
 

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