RockShox MAG air seal modification/replacements

FluffyChicken

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Well I recently bought a pair of MAG 10 (1994), mainly for the parts for my 1994 MAG 21. (SL steerer and now may be the LT setup that unknowingly is in them)
Though I was going to use some other internals if my 21's needed them as they are identical other than the stanchions and the top caps.

But I'm going to fix these up as well now because they are still nice and I had to break them
They unfortunately leek through the air seals and will n ot hold air (well one will not at all and the other not very well)

They've not been very well looked after :(, one leg had little, almost no oil in them :shock: and the other was way way below where it should be.

Currently I cannot get them apart as I don't have the tools and everything around the main oil seal was dry or had solidified. I had to scrape, with a thin screwdriver, lots of hard solid to just get at the C-clip.
Unfortunately even 100PSI would not blow the forks apart, and ramming appart doesn't really work with '94 forks due to the springs.
so if anyone has the tools could I borrow them ;)

Anyways, seals are shot and cannot be fixed as the end of the hole is ripped off (common problem). In fact the major flaw in the damn things.... BITD.

Internet shops do not sell them and my LBS (Ken Ellerkers) where I know used to have parts and could service them, is not responding to me trying to contact them.

So in your travels over the past 15 years that I lack in MTB land, has anyone come across any modifications for these or alternate air seals that could be used/made up etc... (they are only an 8mm x 8mm diameter cylinder of some plastic with a fine hole in the middle that compresses shut, after all)

The MAG10's look easier due to the top cap design and possible idea I'm thinking are:

- putting a presta valve in there, would need to measure up though.
- finding some rubbery-plastic of said diameter and pushing a thin needle through
- wishing I had remembered about this auction with the parts in it.


Anyone ?
 
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I used some old handle bar grips. Tioga if i remember?

Made a small cookie-cutter and cut out some chunks. Placed them in the caps, tightened and pierced them with a needle. Then pumped up.

To pull my mags apart i used a vice and some clamps made out of wood to hold the stanchions.
 
I have modified quite a few sets of Mag's in the past to schrader valve.
And most recently a Noleen piggy back shock on my RTS!
If you need any help with them drop me a PM.
 
I'll give the handlebar idea a go as I have some cork borers so can get good circles :)

Just need to find suitable material now (I have no old grips :shock: ), though I do have some new neoprene gas tubing in at work.


Shraeder valve I was thinking of staying away from as I would need to push against it to attach a pump, that and the Presta has a better diameter for the '94 MAG10 aluminium (red bit) lump and the nut will screw it down.


I think I rabbled on a bit in my first post :lol:

Thanks to all, and any picture of you valves rc300 would be good. I'm sure others will need some badges in future.
 
I also have a set of mag forks, I think they are 21's but not really sure. I need to repaint the lower legs and cannot figure out how to remove the upper legs. I have removed the seals and circlips, any advice?

Also Fluffy I don't suppose you ended up with a spare crown/steerer you don't want? Mine is threaded and I would prefer ahead.
 
By seals I assume you mean just the wiper seals.

Try blowing the forks up to 100 PSI+ and they should spring apart..

The tools make the job easy or make your own but the idea it to pull the legs of the stanchions so pulling out the main seal.

Normally you have a clamp to go around the top of the stanchion (in fact the crown could work as that I guess.)
get something in between that and the top of the legs to push them apart.

If you get the idea ?

It's in the manuals in my gallery ;)
 
FluffyChicken":9ng71e6b said:
By seals I assume you mean just the wiper seals.

Try blowing the forks up to 100 PSI+ and they should spring apart..

The tools make the job easy or make your own but the idea it to pull the legs of the stanchions so pulling out the main seal.

Normally you have a clamp to go around the top of the stanchion (in fact the crown could work as that I guess.)
get something in between that and the top of the legs to push them apart.

If you get the idea ?

It's in the manuals in my gallery ;)

Ok this is very useful, can I just check though? The manual refers to a special tool for separating the upper and lower legs, and mentions using an unscrewing motion, and not simply pulling. Does anyone know a method that does not require the tools? I do not have a pump at the mo so will leave the air inside and just try to refurb the lower legs with new paint or maybe polish? :?
 
You cannot leave the air inside, as soon as you separate a few things will happen, oil everywhere or the air pressure pushes it out ;)

You will need a way to pump the forks up.

If you are spraying them and do not want to fiddle, then I would just bung grease and newspaper on top of the seals and wrap the stanchions (top silver tubes) with paper as well.

Though I would look at air pressure as it's probably low and you may need new oil in them by now anyway.
 
I wouldn't mind an idiots guide to seperate the legs without the tools (have pump). I have a manky cracked set to practice on before trying it on my SL's to fit the long travel kit :twisted:
 
Well I bored some rubber bungs out at work, also got some other rubber material to try.... and I left it all at work with one of the caps, lol.

Guess i'll have to try that route next week. Always the other cap to play with though :twisted:
 
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