XT & XTR sealed bearing jockey maintenance

Splatter Paint

Retrobike Rider
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All, those of you running late 8 speed XT & XTR and certainly 9 speed XT & XTR systems should find this useful. After a particularly bad ride, marred by continual chainsuck I stripped my bike down to diagnose the problem - after ordering two new XT chainrings and an XTR chain :oops: it turns out that the chainsuck was caused by failure of the sealed bearing jockey wheel on the rear mech. The bearing had seized, causing the chain to go slack on the lower chain run and hence get dragged up into the chainstay.

The lower jockey wheel on XT & XTR is a sealed roller bearing, pressed into a plastic cog. An XT one is £17.99 to replace and XTR one £18.99!! To save yourself some money and some rather unsightly chainstay damage you can service the 'sealed' bearing, prolonging the life.

Simply undo the lower jockey bolt on the rear mech, you will then be able to remove the two aluminium washers and steel shim from the jockey. I've not actually had an 8 speed unit apart but I assume they are the same as the 9. The XT jockey has a steel seal which is rubber lipped, stopping the ingress of dirt, the XTR one is all rubber but the principal is the same. Using a very small screw driver prise the seal out of the bearing on both sides, this will expose the rollers. Mine were caked in black mud and grease mix :( Then flush through with solvent or WD40 and dry thouroughly. Then pack with a THIN grease, Castrol LM bearing grease is ideal. Now fit one of the seals, this will push the grease through the ball race. Now add a bit more grease to the other side and refit the seal. Wipe away the excess grease, refit the two alloy washers and steel shim and refit to the bike.

If you removed the jockey and found the innards were all white, then you've removed the guide or 'G' pulley, this should be mounted at the top of the mech, not the bottom. Give it a clean and re-fit. Since it is ceramic I don't think it requires greasing.

Below is an exploded diagram of an M750 mech but the earlier and later models are much the same.

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 611911.pdf

SP
 
Great advice but would question the wisdom of flushing through with WD40 and regreasing straight away. WD40 takes too long to dry and will cause your grease to separate,.

I always use Finish Line "Speed clean".

But the principle´s the same.
 
Works on Tacx ball bearing jockey wheels too. Flush with GT85, dry, pack with grease and nail back together. Job's a goodun :D
 
Nice one! I had no idea the XTR jockey wheels were so intricate. I suppose that's why they cost so much. I obsessively cleaned and re-greased all my XT rear mechs last winter so know what they look like inside. My kitchen sink hasn't looked the same since. From memory, the shape of the cage backplate prevents you from getting the two jockey wheels mixed up. Just as well...
 
I've always found the seal on the so called sealed jockeys pretty ineffective.

I used to remove, clean and re-grease my jockeys on a regular basis as far back as 1991 from memory.

The seals do a good job of keeping the grease in but also after a while they also hold in the dirt too. Regular cleaning is the trick.
 
I do almost the same, but I soak all the parts in motor oil, repack and wipe clean, repeat about once every 20 washes or so.

Never had a problem.

I am the only one who still puts chains in the oven (about 100c), takes them out hot and soak in motor oil, then once cool wipe clean and dry?
 
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