Narrow bars and long stem builds from bitd were not ideal for long wheelies. Getting the balance point further back, wider riser bars, shorter stems and fat pedals and lots of practice is the order of the day.
The frame is made from Columbus MAX OR Nivacrom tubing and achieves stiffness by using non-round tubes with oval ends. The orientation of the oval changes to selectively apply stiffness where needed. For instance, the down tube has the major axis of the oval orientated vertically at the head...
Pretty sure these frames were made as a cheaper option ‘under license’ to FAT CITY CYCLES and not made by the artisans in Somerville themselves. Quite a heavy frame but they are still collectable afaik. Seen different forks on these too...
Some kid will have an amazing Crimbo waking up to this. My daughter climbed every steep gravelly hill from the age if 6 on these they are so light compared to a modern kids rig.
Its defo a L sus corrected frame from 93/94. I had the same frame and they really do ride beautifully with the right fork. You need to inspect the seat tube base as mentioned on another thread especially as its been kept in a shed.
Plenty of Yeti FROs and other high end premium thin walled steel frames of this era ‘can have’ rust issues, its nothing unique to steel FATs no drain hole accepted. I always turned my 89 steel FAT upside down and dried the seat tube out over night in a warm room and used frame saver = zero rust...
Yes, this Yo Eddy fork predates (90-92) the BOI (92 -10th Anniversary BOI only but from 93 onwards BOI forks were suspension corrected unless custom ) Factory BOI forks are actually very very rare as most new FAT owners were speccing suspension forks by 1993. Plenty of reproduction BOI ones...