silverclaws
Senior Retro Guru
All I know is it smooths out the shifting on a 7 ratio. I was given mine, so am keen to try it out. But then in the past, I thought the rear shifting was ok for what use I had of it.
Cog Hog ?
- Thread starter silverclaws
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It removes the curved cable routing to the rear mech,the cable and outer leaves the last cablestop and instead of curving into the rear mech adjuster it routes straight goes around the 'cog hog' then into the mech
If you look at the pics youll see the rear section of cable straight instead of curved
If you look at the pics youll see the rear section of cable straight instead of curved
utahdog2003
Senior Retro Guru
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The first gen Avid Roll-a-ma-Jig. Same idea, slighly different execution. These little goofy things were parts of a trend of bizarre cable routing goodies and chain tensioner type things that were concocted to make early Grip Shift like the SRT500s, work with better with Shimano derailleurs. Remember that one of the improvements of the early 90s Shimano derailleurs was the addition of a light return spring, which prompted some really weird little dodads, like Grip Shift Bassworms (essentially surgical tubing!) and even replacement return springs! Anyway, these roller cable routers were marketed with the same approach, reducing cable tension and it's effect on the return spring shifting efficiency.
Basically they look neat.
Basically they look neat.
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IIrc the cog hog is a copy of the Avid Rollamajig but without the sealed bearing in the pulley.
I've got one of each and the Avid works better (you would expect it to for twice the price of the cog hog) and it has the anti-break-when-you-hit-something thingamabob.
I've got one of each and the Avid works better (you would expect it to for twice the price of the cog hog) and it has the anti-break-when-you-hit-something thingamabob.
silverclaws
Senior Retro Guru
The Avid device looks to be better, on the photo, I particularly like the replacement of the mech barrel adjuster to before the roller thing, aesthetically, it makes the roller thing appear part of the rear mech, not a cute add on.
Also with me, the ability to service a part is important, I can take it apart when I 'm bored, replace bearings, thorough clean, that sort of thing.
So, when fitting either the crud thing or the avid thing, the straight bit of cable outer, should the outer be just long enough to provide a bit of spring to keep it in place between the roller thing and the frame cable stop ? Or is the cable outer not a problem once the roller thing is fitted ?
Am thinking as the mech pivots on the hanger bolt, it moves on the pivot forwards and backwards depending on the gear range selected, would a shorter and stiffer cable outer create an oppostion to this movement ? The standard curved cable outer with this movement, well the curve goes tighter or flattens depending on the position.
Also with me, the ability to service a part is important, I can take it apart when I 'm bored, replace bearings, thorough clean, that sort of thing.
So, when fitting either the crud thing or the avid thing, the straight bit of cable outer, should the outer be just long enough to provide a bit of spring to keep it in place between the roller thing and the frame cable stop ? Or is the cable outer not a problem once the roller thing is fitted ?
Am thinking as the mech pivots on the hanger bolt, it moves on the pivot forwards and backwards depending on the gear range selected, would a shorter and stiffer cable outer create an oppostion to this movement ? The standard curved cable outer with this movement, well the curve goes tighter or flattens depending on the position.
When measuring for the outer cable I usually shift the chain onto the big ring at the front. This pulls the mech as far forward as it normally goes. I then cut the cable so it's just shy of being dead straight. This allows a bit of slack for any movement.
For reference I have a bit more slack in the cable than shown in utahdog2003's pic above.
If you cut the cable so there's no slack in it then it can affect the shifting, and can eventually snap off the tab that fits in the barrel adjuster (for the coghog anyway). That's why some people used to break, or bend, their coghogs bitd.
For reference I have a bit more slack in the cable than shown in utahdog2003's pic above.
If you cut the cable so there's no slack in it then it can affect the shifting, and can eventually snap off the tab that fits in the barrel adjuster (for the coghog anyway). That's why some people used to break, or bend, their coghogs bitd.
