Recent content by ishaw

I managed to find the brake I knew I had, but it's a right hand lever I'm afraid. I may have a couple of Deore levers, need to check I have both left and right, but should have. They were retired as I replaced the brakes due to a suspected leaky calliper (micro-leak.i heard it referred to)...

I don't think I have ergon branded ones but do have a few grips in this style if that's of interest?

It's just topping up so will give that a go first. I've postponed the plan for now, may as well do the full strip and rebuild at the same time so waiting for some bearing pullers to arrive then I'll get to it.

I'm used to bleeding brakes, done it for years, hope, Shimano, magura, avid/SRAM, Hayes, formula to name some. I happened to watch a video on the xt brakes I have, just because they have the catch cannister that screw on to the master cylinder which I hadn't used before, and the procedure...

I may actually have a full rear brake. Remember buying one as part of a bundle of bits I needed and was keeping as a spare as I have a set to fit on my son's bike and so far only done the front. I'll have a look tomorrow and see if I still have it.

Looking for something to adorn a nice set of cranks running a nos outer and granny. 110bcd, 36 or 38t, Shimano ideally, silver with ramps and pins would be lovely, as would condition to match the other 2 rings.

Yes, i-spec EV is one of the 3 I think i-spec options Shimano have created.

I've got some Deore levers of the same style I'm not using, you could swap over or pinch the bit you need from it? Saw this, maybe a full lever swap could be cheap. https://ebay.us/m/4ch05y

I'll have a play tonight and see what's what.

Yes, weird as was fine before the wheel and cassette swap. I'll faff around and see if I can sort it through cable replacing and b scee scrutiny.

If the spacers are out back on incorrectly, you can end up with the BB cup too far outboard which will then bind against the arm. Are you able to post a pic or visually confirm the way the spacers are set up and if the arm is literally tightening up against the BB cup?

The correct process is to remove the self extracting covers, freeing the captive bolts. With the bolts removed you can see the splines and align correctly before refitting the bolts, tighten them up, then finally screw the self extractor covers back on.

Rest assured I've done that, it's still dropping slowly even after a few turns on the adjuster, which then if course messes with the upshift.

It's an xt rear mech and shifter which were shifting fine before the wheel and cassette swap, nothing else has been touched. I'll check the b limit screw but things looked ok to me. I may as well swap the cables, I was going to do that anyway as a full tear down was on the cards, just wanted...

I have seen some xtr cranks with marks on the cranks which could only have been caused by the arm binding on the inside of the BB. Not sure how this happens as the arms should not be able to do this unless there's something wrong with the splines and they've allowed the arm to be over-tightened...